Semifreddo: The Italian Frozen Dessert You Can Make Without a Machine (and Should Make for Christmas)
My first Christmas Day off in six years of cooking, I volunteered to bring dessert — and then…
Posted inFood Culture
7 Best Italian Desserts Worth Ending a Meal On
Ask an Italian how to finish a meal and the answer is rarely something fussy. The best Italian…
Panna Cotta: The Wobble Test, and Why Less Gelatine Is the Whole Secret
Our head chef judged panna cotta without a spoon. He'd put the plate on the pass and slap…
Cannoli: The Crunch Is a Deadline — A Chef’s Guide to Sicily’s Greatest Pastry
The function that taught me cannoli was a fiftieth birthday, eighty guests, and my bright idea to fill…
Posted inFood Culture
Traditional Italian Dishes, Done Properly
There's a moment on every menu I've worked where someone asks for the "authentic" version of a dish…
Ricotta & Spinach Cannelloni: The One I Kept Getting Wrong
The first tray of cannelloni I ever sent out, half the tubes split down the side and wept…
